Faulty Radiant burner Element in Glass top electric stove

Stove Repairs in Port Elizabeth

Faulty Radiant burner Element in Glass top electric stove 

Don't you just love the visual effect you see from a Radiant burner Element in a electric Glass top stove - Not to talk about the instant surface heat, it's like having a open flame gas burner stove.

Russel Hobbs glass top stove hob

To do creative cooking on these burner element you need three components to work together in perfect harmony.

Underneath the shining glass top there are;

• Element
• Switch
• Wires

The switches and wires I will cover in another post but for now just the stove burner/element. When you start noticing dark spots on the element, it is indicating a pending fault. 

Other times It is difficult to always see a visual break in the system but the burner just doesn't come on. 

Then you have to do a continuity test with your multimeter (it should read 0 and 115 ohms of resistance) - No continuity means the element is broken.

Yaks! I heard that !!

 - Ok I will also cover continuity testing in another post because You don't have to be a rocket scientist to do this test but this information will save you plenty in callout and quote fee's.  

Faulty Radiant Element

Once you have removed the glass Check for burned spots like the picture above or if there is a break in the coils.  Don't try to repair the element just replace it.

Beverley I do hope this information help you to make a better informed decision for getting your stove sorted in America.

Enjoy your electrical DIY

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Ps: should you need more information leave a comment below or shoot over to facebook

41ER Stove Switch replacing the NF1 Satchwell Switch

Stove Repairs in Port Elizabeth

41ER Switch

Instead of the old NF1 Satchwell regulator switch Defy is now using a more sturdy switch for their Stove plate (burner / element) controls.

Connecting the wire to the new switch might seems a little more complicated but that is why you have me.

41ER Stove plate switch

If you are as  lucky as I am to Live in Eastern Cape then your stove plates should also work off single phase electricity (220 Volts) and you must add a jumper wire between P1 terminal and terminal 4 (see picture)

The other wires of your stove plate should be connected in the following sequence

• P2 - Pilot (lamp)
• 2  -  Load ( to stove elements)
• P1 - Live (from fuse box or main power terminal)
• 4A - Neutral (blue wire or Negative)

I hope this information helps to make your appliance repairs more pleasurable?
Should you need more information - leave me a comment below or shoot over to our Facebook page and just ask.

Cheers!

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